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A comprehensive guide to evaluating prospective purchases

VEHICLES TO AVOID

• Law enforcement vehicles, fleet cars, rental vehicles, taxis, or vehicles that have been used for ride-share services: these should all be at the very bottom of your purchase list. Even if they appear to be in pretty good shape, they’ve most likely racked up an excessive amount of mileage—and were almost certainly operated under fairly harsh driving conditions.

• Lemons: vehicles that have warranty-covered defects which cannot be repaired by the manufacturer within a certain time period, and after several attempts, are considered lemons in most states (though the requirements vary). Depending on location, if a manufacturer re-purchases a defective vehicle, the title must reflect that it is a lemon law buyback. Purchasing these cars is generally not advisable, since the manufacturer will have already made several attempts to rectify the problem before re-purchasing it from the owner.

• Salvaged: salvaged vehicles have been damaged to the degree that the insurance company, leasing company, or owner has decided it isn’t worth the cost of repairs. If the damage is very minimal (which is unlikely, considering that the car is most likely worth less than the cost of repairing it), you could consider purchasing—but keep in mind that if the car has been in an accident, it could have sustained more serious damage than meets the eye (which leads us into the next category)—

• Wrecked and repaired: if a car has been in a wreck, it may have sustained frame damage that could cause instability and issues in the future. If you’re interested in purchasing a vehicle that has been involved in a wreck, be sure to request the repair invoices/records to see what type of work has been completed.

• Storm registry: some vehicles that have sustained flood damage are moved great distances in order to be sold in other areas where buyers might not be as well-versed in inspecting for water damage. The National Motor Vehicle Title Information System (NMVTIS) can help you research the background of your prospective new vehicle to make sure that the title isn’t missing any important information (but it’s still important to check for signs of water damage even if the title comes up clear).

You’re ready to lay down some hard-earned cash—so take the time to evaluate your purchase.

• Potentially stolen: if you have any suspicions that the used vehicle you’re interested in may have been stolen (some clues include if the VIN plate is missing/repainted, the VIN on the title doesn’t agree with the one on the body, or the vehicle is priced lower than its value), it’s best to just walk away.

EVALUATING THE EXTERIOR

Arriving with a checklist can let prospective sellers know that you’re serious about fully evaluating the vehicle—and can help you reduce the buying price if you locate areas that need repair.

• Take a 360° view of the car

Circle the car and try to look from every angle. Are there any ripples in the body that might indicate damage? Is the paintjob in good shape? Look carefully along the body at an angle—instead of straight on—to see if you can catch any dings or paint cover-ups in the reflection.

• Look for dents and paint abnormalities

Corrosion is serious—and it will only get worse.

Severe dents and chipped paint can be expensive repairs. If the seller hasn’t already discounted the price to account for the damage, make sure the proper deductions are made. If you notice areas that have been re-painted, it should tip you off that the vehicle may have been in an accident.

• Keep a sharp eye out for rust

Rust spreads—which is why it should always be immediately removed/repaired when noticed. Even if it is painted over, which some unscrupulous sellers will do, the surface beneath will continue to degrade. Don’t forget to look for rust on the underside of the car, in the wheel wells, and under the trunk mats. If you observe anything other than very mild rusting, it’s best to walk away.

• Check for salt corrosion on the undercarriage

Salted roads can accelerate corrosion on the undercarriage of a vehicle, so bring a flashlight and make sure to get down on your hands and knees. If the vehicle has a brand-new undercoating, that may be a red flag that the seller is trying to hide corrosion.

• Look for signs of a bent frame

Spot welds and bent frames are signs of wreck repairs, and should be an immediate deal-breaker if not already disclosed by the seller.

• Check to make sure the doors, hood, and trunk all latch firmly

If a vehicle has been in an accident, door latches, hood latches, and trunk latches may be thrown out of alignment. This is also a good time to check the insides of doors and in the trunk for signs of repainting.

• Watch for sagging

Always look for signs of water damage in any prospective used vehicle.

The front and rear of the vehicle should be level when resting on a flat surface. If you see unevenness either front-to-back or left-to-right, it could be an indication that the suspension is damaged.

• Look for tell-tale signs of water damage

If a car has been flooded out, you will typically be able to find water stains inside the trunk, under the seats, and under carpeting—and the car may have a musty smell.

• Check for leaks

Move the vehicle from where it was parked, and check to see if there are any fresh leak spots.

• Inspect the tires

Tires should all be the same size and type; unmatched/unbalanced tires can negatively affect gas mileage and potentially cause premature wear. Look carefully at the treads—wear on the outside treads can indicate an alignment issue. Correcting front-end alignment is usually relatively inexpensive, but rear-end alignment issues could indicate a bent rear axle, which is an expensive repair.

Make sure the condition of the interior approximately matches the number on the odometer.

Check all of the seat belts to make sure they’re operational.

It’s never a bad idea to have a trusted mechanic evaluate your prospective purchase.

Print this complementary vehicle evaluation checklist